Shawls
There are three fibres from which Kashmiri shawls are made - wool, pashmina and
shahtoosh. The prices of the three cannot be compared - woollen shawls being within
reach of the most modest budget, and shahtoosh being a one-in-a-lifetime purchase.
Woollen shawls are popular because of the embroidery worked on them, which is
unique to Kashmir. Both embroidery and the type of wool used bring about differences
in the price. Wool woven in Kashmir is known as raffel and is always 100 per cent
pure. Sometimes blends from other parts of the country are used and Kashmiri embroidery
is worked on them. These blends contain cashmilon, cotton, or a mixture of both.
Many kinds of embroidery are worked on shawls. 'Sozni' (needlework) is
generally done in a panel along the sides of the shawl. Motifs, usually abstract
designs or stylised paisleys and flowers are worked in one or two, and occasionally
three subdued colours. The stitch employed is not unlike stem stitch, and only
the outline of the design is embroidered. The fineness of the workmanship and
the amount of embroidery determines the value of the shawl. Sozni is often done
so skilfully that the motif appears on both sides of the shawl, each side having
a different colour scheme. This naturally has a bearing on the cost.
Another type of needle embroidery is popularly known as 'papièr mâchè'
work because of the design and the style in which it is executed. This is done
either in broad panels on either side along the breadth of a shawl, or covering
the entire surface of the breadth of a shawl or that of a stole. Flowers and leaves
are worked in chain stitch in bright colours such as those of papier-mache and
each motif is then outlined in black.
A third type of embroidery is Aari or hook embroidery. Motifs here are the well-known
flower design finely worked in concentric rings of chain stitch.
Pashmina is unmistakable due to its softness. Pashmina yarn is spun from
the hair of the ibex found in the highlands of Ladakh, at 14,000 ft above sea
level. Although pure pashmnina is expensive, the cost is sometimes brought down
by blending it with rabbit fur or with wool. It is on pashmina shawls that Kashmir's
most exquisite embroidery is executed, sometimes covering the entire surface,
earning it the name of 'jamawar’. A Jamawar shawl can, by virtue of the embroidery,
increase the value of a shawl threefold.
A second, less frequently seen weave done only on pashmina, covers the surface
with tiny lozenge shaped squares, earning it the delightful name of 'chashm-e-bulbul,'
or "eye of the bulbul". As this weave is a masterpiece of the weaver's
art, it is normally not embroidered upon.
Shahtoosh, from which the legendary 'ring shawl' is made, is incredibly light,
soft and warm. The astronomical price it commands in the market is due to the
scarcity of the raw material. High in the plateaux of Tibet and the eastern part
of Ladakh, at an altitude of above 5,000 m, roam the Tibetan antelope (Pantholops
Hodgsoni). During grazing, a few strands of the downy hair from the throat are
shed which are painstakingly collected by the nomads, eventually to supply to
the Kashmiri shawl makers as shahtoosh.
The yarn is spun either from shahtoosh alone, or mixed with pashmina, bringing
down the cost somewhat. In the case of pure shahtoosh too, there are many qualities
- the yarn can be spun so skilfully as to resemble a strand of silk. Not only
are shawls, made from such fine yarn, extremely expensive, but can only be loosely
woven and are too flimsy for embroidery to be done on them. Unlike woollen and
pashmina shawls, shahtoosh is seldom dyed - that would be rather like dyeing gold!
Its natural colour is mousy brown, and it is, at the most, sparsely embroidered.
